Saturday, February 18, 2017
I used an angle grinder to remove the Drylok Sealer. It was a awful, dusty job but neither paint remover nor the little sandblasting tool worked well enough.
I am currently plastering with a mix of one part Portland cement to two parts Quikrete Play Sand. I'm wetting it with one part water, one part Pro Select Concrete Bonding Adhesive and Acrylic Fortifier -- all purchased at Lowes.
Friday, January 13, 2017
It's a nasty job, though.
The idea is to remove the sealer, make repairs, and probably plaster the pool, though the beautiful blue sealer I originally used held up for many years. I painted that sealer over the raw blocks with no plaster or primer and had no leaks for at least ten years. Even now the bottom of the pool, where the sealer is intact, holds water.
There is a lot of grinding yet to do.
Tedious and incredibly dusty work.
So...the little swimming pool was cool when I built it for my bride almost twenty years ago.
About five feet wide by nine feet by long by four and half feet deep – a rectangular hole at the bottom of which I poured a slab. Then I lined the hole with cement blocks and painted it all with a waterproof sealer. It held water, which felt like a great victory for me.
My dear ol’ dad had built a small pool for my sister and me many years prior. He used ferrocement – a better idea – but I knew nothing of ferrocement when I built my pool.
The pool had a pump that circulated the water into a spillway that, when you stood beneath it, gave a nice massage but, alas, she wanted a bigger pool. And when we installed a big above ground pool, we turned my homemade one into a fish pond.
The goldfish came from Walmart. They were tiny, but they thrived and, over the years, grew into giants.
Then came raccoons, who gobbled them up.
And that was that.
The pool became a puddle of muck after that.
But I’ve decided to resurrect it.
Sunday, April 24, 2016
Saturday, April 16, 2016
My Rust-Oleum paint job -- Flat Black and Safety Red.
Because if you're going to paint your car with Rust-Oleum and a paint roller in your dirt driveway in the middle of South Carolina's pollen season, you might as well go two-toned.
This process involves several thin coats of Rust-Oleum diluted (50/50) with mineral spirits and applied with a high density foam roller. I primed after sanding with Rust-Oleum metal and plastic primer diluted the same way (this car is, I swear, 50% plastic). Light and wet sanding with steel wool, a scouring pad, and very fine sandpaper between coats took care of much of the debris and the poor little bugs that could not resist a taste of wet paint. Rust-Oleum requires some drying time, so I generally applied one coat a day over several days -- five coats of red, six of black. Touted as the $50 Rust-Oleum Paint Job on some sites, it probably cost more like $100.
I had damaged this car's paint job with a polish kit that reacted with the clear coat. It took two or three years for most of the shine to flake off, exposing the paint to oxidation. This vehicle looked pitiful, and I had little to lose by experimenting.
After a little touching up with a foam brush, I'm pleased with the result.
Next Rust-Oleum project will involve the hood of my beautiful 1994 Ford Ranger. I promise a step by step of that one.
Monday, June 1, 2015
|As before, I started with a 1-1/4" male threaded cap and a 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 female threaded bushing, I also used a gnarled adapter for my air gun, and a small copper nozzle.|
|I used the Dremel to cut the ridge off just below the nozzle hole so the gnarled adapter, air gun, etc, will fit and turn freely to tighten. Then I sanded and buffed the area clean|
|Here is the fitting with the nozzle and gnarled adapter attached.|
Monday, May 25, 2015
|Shower structure, still under construction, with solar hot water heater.|
|Me, using home made mortar sprayer.|